Yes we are. We have experience removing the largest trees which grow in our area--cottonwoods in the valleys and pines in the mountains. When advisable, we team up with an experienced crane operator to dismantle large or hazardous trees safely and efficiently.
Yes, our profession has inherent risks. We therefore maintain business liability with USF Insurance with limits of $1,000,000 per incident and $2,000,000 aggregate per year.
Yes, we accept major credit cards.
"We have several ISA Certified Arborists on our team."
For intense training in horticulture, it's hard to beat the Master Gardner program offered through University of Nevada Cooperative Extension Service. Excellent courses in tree care and arboriculture (1-3 days) are offered annually through the Nevada Shade Tree Council, Western Chapter of the International Society of Arboriculture, and the Nevada Landscape Association.
We recycle them of course! After running limbs through our chipper, we have created material that can be used as organic mulch when placed in planting beds. All trees and shrubs benefit from a 2-4 inch layer of mulch on top of the soil. Mulch reduces evaporation of soil moisture, slows weed growth, moderates soil temperatures, and enriches soil gradually with organic matter. It also happens to be an attractive top dressing for many gardeners. Mulch is often used on construction sites or ranches to reduce storm water runoff and to prevent dust raised by wind. Deeper layers of mulch can protect the roots of existing trees from soil compaction by heavy equipment, as on construction sites. Our mulch can also be used as a base material for composting, as it contains carbon and, when leaves are present, nitrogen. Please, let us know if you would like some wood chips delivered to your garden, construction site or ranch !
Here is your opportunity to ask your tree care questions and our ISA certified arborists will provide answers. To send us your question, email us at email@example.com The answers will be posted here, so come back and visit often!
Wound dressings were once thought to accelerate wound closure, protect against insects and diseases, and reduce decay. However, research has shown that dressings do not reduce decay or speed closure and rarely prevent insect or disease infestations. Most experts recommend that wound dressings not be used. If a dressing must be used for cosmetic purposes, then only a thin coating of a nontoxic material should be applied.
Topping is harmful for the following reasons. Topping is any cutting of tree branches to stubs or lateral branches that are not large enough to assume the terminal role. Other names for topping include “heading,” “tipping,” “hat-racking,” and “rounding over.” Your case is the most common reason given for topping, to reduce the size of a tree. Home owners often feel that their trees have become too large for their property. People fear that tall trees may pose a hazard. Topping, however, is not a viable method of height reduction and certainly does not reduce the hazard. In fact, topping will make a tree more hazardous in the long term.
Sometimes a tree must be reduced in height or spread. Providing clearance for utility lines is an example. There are recommended techniques for doing so. If practical, branches should be removed back to their point of origin. If a branch must be shortened, it should be cut back to a lateral that is large enough to assume the terminal role. A rule of thumb is to cut back to a lateral that is at least one-third the diameter of the limb being removed. This method of branch reduction helps to preserve the natural form of the tree. However, if large cuts are involved, the tree may not be able to close over and compartmentalize the wounds. Sometimes the best solution is to remove the tree and replace it with a species that is more appropriate for the site. Topping should not be implemented, topping
Yes, this can lead to injury of the tree. If a large limb is to be removed, its weight should first be reduced. This is done by making an undercut about 12 to 18 inches from the limb’s point of attachment.Make a second cut from the top, a few inches farther out on the limb. Doing so removes the limb, leaving the 12- to 18-inch stub.Remove the stub by cutting back to the branch collar. This technique reduces the possibility of tearing the bark and results in clean closure of the wound.
There is a very simple answer to this often posed question--always call a professional for tree pruning or to care for a tree near utility lines.